Stefano Aldighieri - Another Design Studio Interview
Stefano Aldighieri designs jeans for some of the worlds biggest denim companies. His company Another Design Studio in LA is one of only a hand full of companies selected to show at the denim trade event The Kingpins. We are lucky enough to have Stefano answer some questions for us.
What does "Another design studio" do?
* We offer a number of services, ranging from design (concept, research and development of fabric, trim, patterns, washes), to branding, marketing, positioning, web development for textile or apparel companies and brands.
How did it start for you? What drew you to the world of denim?
* I grew up in Northern Italy, in an area where textiles and garment manufacturing were very present; I studied Architecture, then Business; worked in the music industry first, and then gradually I got attracted to the world of jeans (it is a long story, we would need a whole lot more space to tell it all!)
You pretty much have a dream resume for any denim head in the world having worked for the likes of Levi's, 7 for all mankind and Hudson to name a few. What would be your first point of advice for anyone trying to get into the world of denim design?
* From the outside, denim looks very simple, it is just a basic cotton fabric with a blue warp and a white fill yarn, with very humble origins. However, because of the nature of its component, it can become very complex and it has to be studied thoroughly in order to understand it and make the best out of it. I would recommend studying the fabric and then constantly researching vintage garments.
Who are your denim role models, and why?
* If we talk brands, I always like to refer to THE original jeans brand, Levi Strauss & Co., where it all began. If you mean denim designers, I think Adriano Goldschmied is perhaps the most influential in the modern times; Marithe' and Francois Girbaud have also always impressed me with their unconventional use of materials and styling; Junya Watanabe, for the way he takes a product and re-constructs it with his own details.
Can you describe your creative process? What inspires you?
* I would like to quote Paul Smith, in my opinion the best non-denim designer out there: "you can find inspiration in everything - and if you can't, look again"
During the creative process do you picture a complete look or just think of the jeans?
* One of the great things about jeans is that they are so versatile, so one can either think about the final 'total look' desired, or focus on the specific item; in either case, one must keep in mind what the 'soul' of the brand is about.
Do you travel all over the world for design inspiration?
* I do travel extensively but, like i said, one can find inspiration anywhere; I do not believe one has to be necessarily in New york, London or Paris in order to get inspired. The best example I can give you is the brand Diesel, which is located in a lovely, tiny, agricultural town in Norther Italy, as far as one can imagine from the 'fashion world'.
What are the main steps when designing a pair of jeans?
* First and foremost, one has to understand the brand and its meaning; then you try to interpret that through fabric, styling and finishes.
What is your favorite single treatment when creating a pair of jeans? Why?
* I really think the foundation of any great jean is a great fabric, that is where I like to focus. Jeans are supposed to get better with time, and if the fabric is great, that is exactly what happens.
Of all the great denim shops in the world today, which are your favorites?
* I really prefer to shop vintage stores to any of the new ones, which tend to become a little sterile and not too exciting. However, I really like some stores in Japan, like 45 RPM, Kapital or Hollywood Ranch Market.
What, in your opinion, are the components of a great denim store?
* You must have great product, otherwise you have nothing; it must be presented in an attractive way, and the staff must be knowledgeable.
You are part of the very select few who get the chance to exhibit at the Kingpins show, is this the only show you do and how important is this show to your studio?
* Kingpins is in my opinion the only viable alternative to a system that has got out of control; there are way too many trade shows, they are all too big and most have lost their appeal. People need to find venues where they can work in a more humane, creative and relaxed atmosphere. For me, it is really important.
What changes have you seen in the denim market in the last few years?
* Denim has moved from being a utilitarian commodity to something more complex; it has moved price points to levels that were not even imaginable just a few years ago. The side effect has been to draw (too) many new people into this business who are just looking for the mirage of high margins and quick returns, without understanding the first thing about the product. Too many people start a denim brand just because they think it is an easy way to make a lot of money, they caused a saturation in the market place and many legitimate brands have suffered from it.
What style of jeans do you wear and the people that work in your office?
* I always wear either vintage (I own some really old jeans and prefer them to any new one) or my own product; in that case, it is mainly in its rigid (unwashed) form.
Would you ever start your own label?
* I always have it in the back of my mind and it may happen at some point; I have a couple of ideas that I think could work, but I strongly believe that a brand needs a reason to exist, otherwise it is just a waste of time and money.
How important do you think having a celebrity wearing your jeans is to a denim brand?
* It depends; it seems to work in some cases, however I think it is only meaningful if such celebrity really believes in that product and if he/she 'fits' the overall image of the brand.
And leading on from this do you think when starting a label that having a big PR budget is as important as having a big design budget?
* 100%. One of the things that have happened in the last few years is that it is no longer enough to have a great product in order to succeed; without a huge marketing budget the chances of emerging from the clutter of brands are virtually non-existent.
Which labels do you think are really pushing the standard of denim design up these days?
* Sadly I find this question really difficult to answer to! I would still refer to M+FG (the european line, of course), G-Star, Replay, Diesel.... but they are all 'old players'.
Everyone goes on about Japanese denim as been the best in the world, do you think it is? If not who makes the best?
* Many Japanese mills have been making outstanding denims for a long time and built a solid reputation. However, there are great denims everywhere, from the USA (where denim was, if not born, certainly made into what it is now), to Europe (Italy, Spain), and other parts of Asia (there are wonderful denims coming out of India nowadays).
What trends do you see emerging through in the coming seasons?
* I think there will be a 'clean up' and many new brands will bite the dust, leaving room for some true innovation and for the traditional old brands. Overall fashion is becoming so homogeneous everywhere around the planet and across different price points that it is getting more difficult to pinpoint emerging trends. I believe some of the 'macro trends' will influence future products; for example, true sustainability (as opposed to the 'green fad'), classic looks as opposed to disposable fashion, and intrinsic value.
| ChrisN: 11/10/09 |
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Larry Lundberg
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