Q/A With Jamie Haller, Creative Director NSF
It was one of these rare times in life when you feel that someone out there, whom you have never met and who doesn't even know you exist, creates a pair of jeans as if I had been whispering in her ear how I want my perfect jeans. That's what happened between me and Jamie Haller, creative director and designer for NSF. When I first saw NSF jeans. I felt that they were custom made for me. To make a long story short, we started e-mailing and we truly believe that we are soulmates - or at least cut from the same cloth - denim, of course! We both believe strongly that jeans should be jeans, denim, in all shapes, forms and washes. And that's that. Anything else is just not jeans. Anything else is a pair of pants with stretch/spandex, print, or patterns and takes away the beauty of a REAL pair of jeans. We both believe in simplicity, in making a statement in a - I hate to say this - plain and simple pair of jeans. 100% cotton, no lace, no charm, no nada.
I am very curious about how Jamie came to think like me and decided to ask her straight out:
Q: Jamie, you worked for years at GUESS, which is the exact opposite of what you are doing now. As you yourself said, it was the height of the time of novelty jeans. Please tell us about your experience there!
A: I worked for Guess for only 1 year. Working for big retail driven companies is a lot different than working for small independent labels. You become a design machine, good and bad. It's extremely fast paced and intense. You become very good at working on 10 things all at once, which in the end, makes you a much better designer. I learned so much about denim and laundry working for Guess so I am very grateful for the experience.
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Designer Q&A With Nicolas Peyrache, Lucky Brand
I recently had the chance to visit the Lucky Brand HQ in Los Angeles to meet with the members of their team, have a personal fitting and see how jeans are made. It was really an amazing day; I was able to learn so much! I think I would hang out at the Lucky Brand HQ forever if I could; the inside of the building is beautiful! To be honest, I did not know much about Lucky Brand as I have never worn their jeans but after my visit, I have a great understanding of the brand. I really enjoy how their price point is so reasonable for jeans that are made honestly in the USA. I LOVED being able to see the jean patterns being cut out from big pieces of denim and being able to watch someone sew it together. What was most exciting for me was the washhouse. It was so awesome being able to understand how the jeans are treated and distressed to get the character and designs on them! If I had to pick one favorite process I think it would have to be the rivet machine, it was really neat to watch someone riveting the jeans.
During my visit I was able to spend a good amount of time with Nicolas Peyrache, Lucky's Design Director (shown above). He is easily one of the coolest guys I've met and we share a lot of the same views on denim. You can check out the questions I had for Nico below. You'll also see my review on a pair of their jeans soon.
1) When did you first get into denim and why?
20 years ago, I was working in France and had the opportunity to work for a denim brand based in Marseille. At the time, we were doing our development and production in Italy, and I quickly became passionate about working on denim, wash and fit.
2) With all the denim brands out there, what makes your jeans stand out from the rest?
I think, at Lucky, we pay attention to detail, wash and fabrication. We want to stay true to the brand, and offer the best quality product to our customer, who likes soft fabric and a great fit.
3) Who do you imagine is your typical customer?
My typical customer is a guy who wants great-looking jeans that he can wear to work, out to dinner and on the weekend. He's willing to spend money on comfortable, high-quality jeans that don't look too relaxed.
4) Where do you get your inspiration from?
Inspiration comes from trends of course, but also from just at looking at people. I love to walk around the city and observe people, their behavior and how they like to dress.
5) Which style and wash of your jeans are moving the quickest at this moment?
For men, our 361 Vintage Straight is our best-selling fit right now. Usually, our customer likes dark washes that he can wear anywhere, anytime.
6) Are there any essential jeans that everyone should have in their wardrobe?
Every guy should have a pair of relaxed jeans and, of course, some slim jeans. For women: skinny skinny skinny with a short inseam, rolled up to show the ankle.
7) What are you favorite jeans for this summer?
Lucky Brand! The Charlie Capri.
8) What have been your favorite pair of jeans that you've owned? Why?
My favorite pair is APC--not just the rinse, but the way they fit, and the way the denim ages.
9) What is the worst trend you've seen in denim?
Huge back pockets and ugly embroidery... not my cup of tea!
10) Which person living or dead would you most like to see in a pair of your jeans?
Steve McQueen, without a doubt!
11) As you know, I love the Legend Collection. What sets the Legend Collection apart from the other jeans at Lucky?
Legend is made entirely in Los Angeles, mostly with selvedge denim. The details are very specific to Legend, like unique pocket linings and trims.
12) And finally, what do you predict for denim in future seasons?
The market has been full of novelty, print, color and embroidery for a while. I think we'll go back to true-blue denim!
Q&A: Christopher J. Brown of Brown, Diem
Today's interview is with designer Christopher J. Brown of Brown, Diem.
Brown, Deim plans to stir something in the heavily saturated denim market that was already there, yet unnoticed. Starting first with the finest denim the world has to offer, Christopher Brown brings each pair of jeans to life by hand inside a micro-studio workshop.
What are you focusing on for the Spring and Fall seasons?
Pushing the envelope in the new era.
What has been your inspiration for your current collection? And the brand as a whole?
It needed to be stepped out & up to perfection.
Are there any new styles that you are very excited about?
Perfecting several smart cut/fits of jeans.
More from our question and answer (here) after the jump!
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Q&A: Jeffrey Lubell, True Religion Creator & Owner
Today's Designer Question & Answer is with Jeffrey Lubell, Creator & Owner of True Religion.
There are styles of this brand that carry us through any kind of situation in our lives. There is always the RIGHT pair of TR to fit our mood/situation. You can dress these jeans up and become a party queen/king, or you can dress them "down" and transmit your inner "rebel with(out) a cause". I am curious, how did you create such a megaglorious, world-wide known brand that really speaks to people, and I mean all kinds of people, be they the young kid that saves his pocket money for weeks to spend it on one pair of TRs, or the famous celeb superstar that we continually see wearing your jeans.
Q: How did you "invent" TR?
A: I wanted to launch my own brand of jeans that were comfortable, stylish and looked different from other premium denim labels. I didn't want to follow the trend, I wanted to create my own trend.
Q: Why True Religion, what were you thinking of when you chose this rather strong name for your brand?
A: There are many religions in the world, but there's only one real religion--and that's the people. And all the people in the world wear jeans.
Q: I have noted that lately you have diverged from your original style of producing 100% cotton, and now do most of your women's jeans with lots of stretch. Is there a reason for this?
A: I offer a variety of product to cater to the many different consumers, but I still offer rigid denim. It is more comfortable, it shapes to a woman's body and gets better the more you wear it.
Q: Also, I know that you are changing those back pockets that used to be such a trademark. You could identify a pair of TRs from far just by seeing those back pockets?
A: I will always continue to run the iconic back pockets but I want to evolve my brand and not be pigeon holed by the logo. You will see a variety of back pocket detailing and labels for upcoming seasons. This gives the consumer who has SO many pairs of my jeans, a new reason to buy.
Q: The same goes for these famous double stitches along the legs of your jeans, another trademark, usually done in 2 colors like orange and red, or just in white, very strong and visible white stitches along the seams...why are you changing these?
A: I still produce all iconic products. As a brand, we're simply evolving and offering newness to our customer. I'm creating new trends.
Q: Your ad campaign for S/S 2012 calls out for us not to conform, but to be rebelling. Seriously, can I call these jeans a "political statement"?
A: It is all about going back the mentality of the 1970's and Woodstock. The campaign alludes to the idea of anti-establishment, anti-money, making love, not war and having one "True Religion".
Q: On the other hand, your jeans seem to be much "cleaner" nowadays, much more subdued, so how does that convert into rebelliousness? I mean, rebellious for me is exactly what you did when you first started your company: ripped, torn, sandwashed and bleached? Or is my point of view "outdated"?
A: I have always offered clean denim. The consumer needs to be able to go from day to night and cleaner denim gives a dressier look.
Q: What are the first pair of jeans you remember?
A: Bobby, Johnny, Joey, Tony and Tommy.
Q: What have been your favorite pair of jeans that you have owned and why?
A: The first pairs of jeans I ever made--Joey, Johnny, Bobby, Tony and Tommy. To me it was like the Levi's 501, so perfect that I knew I would sell these jeans for the next 150 years.
Q: How many pairs of jeans do you currently own and which ones do you wear the most?
A: I own over 250 pairs of jeans. Skinny, boot, straight, flare, It depends on my mood that day.
Q: Who is your current favorite denim icon (male & female). I am thinking the person who has the most denim style?
A: Giselle Bündchen and Gabriel Aubry.
Q: Which person living or dead would you most like to see in a pair of your jeans?
A: James Dean and Steve McQueen.
Q: What are your biggest selling styles?
A: The original iconic styles.
Q: What essential jeans should every woman have in her wardrobe?
A: The ones that make her feel sexy.
Q: What styles are going to be big next season?
A: The Seventies inspired Love & Haight collection for women and the western inspired Snake Eyes collection for men.
Q: Which celebs are wearing your jeans?
A: Naomi Watts, Giselle Bündchen, Megan Fox, Kate Winslet, Anna Kournikova, Dwight Howard, Kobe Bryant, Blake Sheldon.
Q: Is there anything else you would like our readers to know?
A: I want to thank all of my consumers, from every walk of life, for loving and buying my jeans.
Q/A With Simon Miller NSF Designer
Hmmm, who are you, Simon Miller?
I tried googling you, but the only thing I found out was that people love your jeans, so I won't pry. Let's just talk about your babies, your jeans.
You have become known in the hard core denim world as the guy who delivers some of the coolest, specially treated selvedge jeans. Your jeans are surely not everyone's cup of tea, but I think that this is just the way you want it to be. I can identify totally.
The Denimology team wishes you the best of luck with your new venture, NSF :-)
Q: You have your own denim brand - Simon Miller Jeans. So how did you become NSF's designer?
A: Nick [NSF Owner] and I had met and became friends; we shared the same sales rep [MattyMoeck] so we were around each other the last few years. I wasn't happy with my own brand and was becoming increasingly frustrated so Nick and I banded together to create a denim line for him that would reach a greater audience.
We shared the same aesthetic and had a common goal so it has become a great project to work on.
Q:What makes NSF denim special?
A: We simply try to make the best 5-pocket jeans we can. NSF denim is a denim line for real people. We are not Proenza Schoeler, we are not trying to make a statement or re-invent anything. We simply try to do the best we can and make denim that people can wear everyday. NSF denim should simply fit great and NOT stand out.
Q: What is the number one thing you are trying to achieve in your designs?
A: We want the denim to feel authentic, but at the same time reach a modern audience.
The goal of NSF denim is paired down product that is relevant to people today. Making something simple and clean is the ultimate goal. Keeping things to a minimum and concentrating on fit and wash is what we do best.
We have been developing the fit and wash techniques for years. We all love the production process so working on new washes and finishes is a ton of fun for all of us.
Q: What styles are going to be big next season?
A: You know that is relevant question for Jamie [NSF Head Designer], but not so much for me. I've been working on the same 5-Pocket Slim jeans for nearly 6 years. Its not in my DNA to be constantly seeking the next big thing. And for men its not really that relevant anyway. I imagine we will be offering the same slim straight 5-pocket jean in 10 years time!! And I'll still be trying to perfect it!!
Q: Which celebs are wearing your jeans?
A: Zac Efron, Bradley Cooper, John Ham, Chris Pine, Chris Evans
Q: What essential jeans should every man have in his wardrobe?
A: Unwashed, Dark Indigo Straight or Slim fit jeans--Preferably NSF.
Q: What is the first pair of jeans you remember?
A: My first major influence was HELMUT LANG jeans in the 90's before they sold the company a million times. My buddy Marty had the greatest pair of vintage washed, paint splattered slim fit HL jeans..sounds so awful now but they were incredible. I had Slim Fit Dirty washed denim and RAW BLACK Helmut Lang jeans that were so cool at the same time. Original Unwashed Nudies were great [back pocket stitch aside] and really helped UNWASHED DENIM become more and more popular despite APC doing it for decades,..
Then Japanese brands like 45rpm and KAPITAL have had a great influence simply because they are produced beautifully. Most recently, RRL because they set the standard for producing any denim product in the USA.
Q: What was your favorite pair of jeans that you have ever owned and why?
A: I nest in Jeans for 2 years at a time... so its variable depending on what I'm wearing. The last 10 years its simply been APC, 5EP, thenRRL's...
Trust me, when it comes to my personal denim I'm super boring and uninspiring!!
Q: Which denim brand do you wear when you don't wear your own creations?
A: RRL only. I don't wear my jeans. It feels like making out with your sister [I imagine]
Q: Which is your favorite jeans shop?
A: My own stores FABRIC - back home in NZ. Ron Herman here in LA.
Q: Who is your current favorite denim icon (male & female). I am thinking the person who, in your opinion, has the most denim style?
A: I'm a big Johnny Depp fan. He wears a collection of so many different garments really effortlessly. He definitely has his own style and personality, and word on the street is he is a dope dude.
Q: Is there anything else you would like to tell our readers about yourself:-)?
A: Nothing about myself. Just a shout out to Marty, Leon, Kirk and Margaret back home, Nick & Matty at NSF, my buddies A&J and a big thanks to Andy and Lisette at DENIMOLOGY who despite my reluctance have always been cool and said nice things about my jeans.
Q/A With Robin Chretien, Robin's Jeans
Robin Chretien, owner and designer of the jeans beloved by infamous and famous celebrity as well as mortal humans {yours truly}, did not make it easy for me to get this interview. He says, he is into designing and creating and not into giving interviews! But, as you probably have noticed by now, I am quite very absolutely persistent and after meeting and talking to him several times, he finally agreed, YAY! Robin, thanks:-)
Q: Robin, what made you start your own jeans company?
RC: I began my own jeans company because I wanted to be able to express my vision, the way I see denim, which is a little bit different than just basic, which I also love. I wanted to be free to work with the people that I love.
Q: I always thought of your jeans as "hard to get" - impossible almost to find here in NYC and online. Are you thinking of opening a store here in NYC?
RC: Yes, we are opening a store in New York very soon. It's a concept store as well as a showroom in the same space.
{Methinks this is going to be my new Mecca;-)}
Q: Your best selling jeans are the Gypsy jeans - those studded and ripped jeans that you present in every new collection. While everybody is always trying to "invent" new jeans styles, you repeat the same style and always with a new wash or new details. How do you explain that these jeans have been your best sellers for 4 seasons now?
RC: I would say that the Gypsy is a top seller of our best sellers. We have many styles that are best sellers and the Gypsy is one of them because it's a different style that's very unique, very rock and roll, and not something you can easily find, like most jeans in in the Robin's Jean collection.
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