1:2:1 with Raven Designer Ya-el Torbati
Raven Denim has always been a brand that I have believed in thoroughly. It's a timeless label that doesn't find it necessary to jump on the band wagon and follow trends that may fizzle out faster than they are popular. They are very true to who they are and confident on the quality that they put out in the industry. I decided to head downtown to catch up with Ya-el Torbati who has been the designer since 2009 and see what she's been up too for the current season and what her vision is for the upcoming seasons.
I've had the pleasure to work with Ya-el at Raven after its' lofty move from NYC to the premium denim grounds here in Los Angeles. So we're catching up on where she's taking this solid brand.
Q: What do you think the next overall trend will be in the denim industry?
A: I think higher rises are going to continue gaining in popularity. Obviously it's already out there, but I think it's finally being embraced more by the general population and they are wanting that extra coverage in the front and realize that it's super sexy. This season we did incredibly well with the Orly which is a high waisted wide leg jean. I plan on expanding the line with higher rises in a variety of looks.
Q: For Spring '12 do you see colorful denim being worn by the masses? Intense washes? Or do you think it will be more scaled back and clean and simple?
A: We've been doing great with color denim this season, our most popular color being the Remy in Aztec. I didn't take the 'brights' approach and it's proven to resonate well with our customer that prefers colors that are softer and easily wearable. I think color denim is going to continue for sure. It's a great alternative to blue jeans but you still get the sexy fit! Picking the right colors is key and for us its about finding colors that are different but have longevity so they won't look like a dated trend for just one season's wear. As far as washes, that really depends on the brand. I think its important to have a good variety. I'm not as much into following the trend as I am into doing whats right for the brand. So even if the market swings to crazy washes and tons of embellishment, you will still find cleaner looks and authentic vintage washes from Raven.
Q: What types of silhouettes are you designing? Bell bottoms, skinny jeans, straight legs, etc.
A: All of the above and more! We also have carrot fits, slouchy skinnys, wide legs, and shorts are becoming a bigger part of the picture than ever before for spring. I think us ladies get bored with wearing the same silhouette over and over and we like to rotate on the fit based on how we feel that day. You know, sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don't!
Q: What do you think Raven's key piece may be for the next season, as well as what is your favorite body/wash that is available right now?
A: My favorite body/wash that's out now?! Oh boy, how do I pick? Lately I've been feeling very 'slouchy skinny' so I've been wearing Poppy in Olive (carrot fit) & Willow in Dusk (a slouchy skinny with boyish details like lower back pockets and removable suspenders). Although, I have a feeling I will be living in the Gilda chambray shorts very soon! For next season (fall2011) I think some key pieces will be Mackenzie in Shade, Mackie in Darkstar, Everly in Beetle, Enid in Ashbury, Libby in Nightfall, & Remy in Bordeaux Corduroy.
It was great catching up with Ya-el and I have to say when it comes to premium denim, quality, and fits Raven has it nailed down. Their styles, washes, and trims offer so many different options. The Mackenzie has been the staple fit since the Raven brand was born, I myself own one too many pairs. Just goes to show though, Raven is a lasting brand and for good reason. Go check them out!.
Agave Denim Q + A: Founder Jeff Shafer
Today's Designer Question & Answer is with Jeff Shafer, Founder & Designer of Agave Denim.
It's a new decade for the designer denim culture, would you please explain what you hope to achieve in this new era?
Separation in the mind of consumers of the true premium makers in the USA and Europe and the imitators and the opportunists coming from China and Vietnam.
Have you reinvented your brand or image?
We are not re-inventing anything Agave has always been about product. As a designer, I have always focused 100% on making the finest denim jeans. In the past, there was no focus on the brand image. All we are doing now is reflecting our customer and showing how we would like to see our product merchandised.
What is changing, if anything, from your prior branding to this new version?
More intentionality. More focus on our image. I used to design my collection and think that the finished product was a sample line. Now the finished product is our imagery. I realized that having terrific product was not enough. We need to present what we make, who wears it and how to wear it. A lot of people think they know our brand but unless they are our customers they don't really know it. Unfortunately, I think our brand is not accurately understood by anybody who doesn't own a few pairs or sell it in their stores.
What are you focusing on for the Spring 2011 season? And for the Fall 2011 season?
Right now we have two major pushes. The first is to build and grow our Agave women's collection. The second is to add younger and more contemporary pieces to our men's collection. My wife, Lauren, has come back this to design from being a stay at home Mom to design our women's collection this year. Fall will be her first full collection. It's an exciting time for us as we are a great team and both of us are fanatical about fabrics and fit.
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Q and A: Paige Adams Geller - Founder of Paige Denim
Paige Denim is the "jeanius" of fit-model-turned-designer Paige Adams-Geller. Paige got her start as the fit model for ten of the world's top denim lines and helped kick off the jeans craze. Becoming keenly aware of the need for the perfect fitting jean, she decided to create a denim line designed by a woman that focused specifically on the desires of a woman. As the first woman to break into the male-dominated denim world, she designs with her uniquely feminine perspective and fifteen years of "behind the seams" experience. Personally, I have to say that I was wearing my Paige skinnies on my 9 hour flight to Brazil last month, and when I arrived in Rio, the jeans were neither sagging at the butt, nor bagging at the knee, nor showing any kind of "stress" (in contrast to myself - hahahahah!). I have made this trip many times before, and usually my wrinkled jeans closely resemble my stressed out facial expression ;-) !!
Q: What essential jeans should every woman have in their wardrobe?
A: Every woman should have a dark skinny jean, a gray skinny, a white jean, a black jean that can be dressed up, a flare (sexy or casual), and a comfortable ankle jean in a worn-in vintage wash. And most importantly, every woman should have her favorite pair of jeans that makes her feel fantastic.
Q: What are the first pair of jeans you remember?
A: At age 5, my mom told me we were moving to Alaska from Southern California and that I had to buy a pair of jeans. I literally fell on the floor and threw a tantrum screaming that "I would never wear jeans and that they were ugly!" She made me get a pair anyway because I needed them in the cold weather.
Q: What have been your favorite pair of jeans that you have owned and why?
A: My favorite pair of jeans I have ever owned are my Lou Lou jeans. They are a sexy, skinny flare that make your legs look miles long. I always wear them when I need a pick me up.
Q: How many pairs of jeans do you currently own and which ones do you wear the most?
A: I can't even begin to tell you how many pairs of jeans I own - it's crazy! I have jeans in my closet stacked, folded and hung and in my office at work. I wear test jeans all the time and love to keep my older Paige jeans for my personal archives.
Q: Who is your current favorite denim icon (male & female). I am thinking the person who has the most denim style?
A:My favorite denim icons are Kate Moss (who is a big fan of our Verdugo jeggings and Silverlake shorts!) and David Beckham.
Q: Which person living or dead would you most like to see in a pair of your jeans?
A: I would love to see David Bowie, Clive Owen, Jane Birkin, and Alexa Chung.
Q: What are your biggest selling styles?
A: So far our biggest sellers for Paige have been the Bentley wide leg in a Mischief (a light blue, 70s inspired wash), the Lou Lou tulip jean in Scene (a sexy, dark indigo) and the Bell Canyon flare in Tigerlilly (in a vintage, worn-in blue wash).
Q: How do you ensure your jeans stand out in a crowded marketplace?
A: I make sure that we offer a variety of fashion forward styles each season in addition to our classic silhouettes. I also make sure that I have the best fitting jean - and best butt jean - that there is.
Q: What styles are going to be big next season?
A: Summer is great for shorts and flares as well as bold colors. Flares and bold colors will also be big for fall, like our Lou Lou tulip flare jean and the Verdugo legging in sexy new colors. This fall, we have new updates for skinnies and leggings with amazing fabrics such as super soft tencel, sateen, and corduroy.
Q: Which celebs are wearing your jeans?
A: I am fortunate to say we have such great celebrities including Kate Moss, Rachel Bilson, and January Jones ,who are fans of Paige. And not to leave out the guys, we have Jeremy Renner, Taylor Lautner, and Matthew Morrison as fans as well.
Question and Answer with Joe's Jeans
This week our Question & Answer Interview with Joe Dahan, the Creative Director & Founder of Joe's Jeans
1. It's a new decade and you are rebranding Joe's Jeans. Would you please explain what you hope to achieve in this new era?
We want to deeply impact style and fashion.
2. Why did you decide to reinvent the Joe's Jeans brand and/or image?
I wouldn't say we are reinventing our brand or image. We've had success with multiple categories for a few years now, but they were separated into micro brands like The Shirt, The Pant, The Bag, etc. For fall, we are launching our first collection, which will present Joe's as a complete lifestyle brand.
3. Joe's Jeans is a very well-known denim brand worldwide. What is changing, if anything, from your prior branding to this new version?
For the first time, we are presenting a complete collection as a lifestyle brand to showcase how we interpret casual chic.
4. What are you focusing on for the Spring 2011 season? And for the Fall 2011 season?
For Spring 2011, we are focusing on casual, washed-down looks inspired by the '70s. This fall is our 10-year anniversary and in the spirit of this celebration our collection will be more sophisticated and fashion forward.
5. What has been your inspiration for your current collection? And for the Joe's Jeans brand as a whole?
This season, we were inspired by the '70s with an organic twist, and featured washed-down colors and super-soft fabrics--a very relaxed and comfortable look. As a brand, we are inspired by a casual, yet sophisticated, lifestyle.
6. Does Joe's Jeans have a muse?
Each season, an individual muse inspires each collection and piece. Our designers at Joe's are the first source for inspiration. Each designer has a unique style, and we look to them to highlight the trends and looks to feature each season. We are also inspired by everyday people: someone we spot on the street, a friend, or maybe even a blogger with a unique sense of style.
7. Are there any new styles that you are very excited about?
Women's--For spring, we have a few styles we are excited about: The Skinny Micro Flare,The Chelsea in Rouge and Blueberry, and The Studded Short in Valerie.
Men's--The Classic Fit in Easton. This white selvedge denim, featuring our soft, worn-down Easton wash, is a favorite. Imported from Italy, white selvedge denim fabric is both soft and strong.
8. Which style, cut and/or wash has been the most successful overall for Joe's Jeans?
For men, our most successful style would be the Brixton. This slim, straight leg fit gives guys a fashionable alternative to the traditional relaxed, loose fit or trendier skinny jean. It comes in a variety of washes including our latest, Costello.
For women, it's definitely our Skinny Visionaire. It's an elegant 9-inch high-rise that tapers at the ankle. It looks beautiful.
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Q and A With Donwan Harrell - Prps, Founder
Donwan Harrell, founder and designer of the famous PRPS jeans, is a man who loves cars and - obviously - jeans. He loves oily jeans, destroyed jeans and destructed jeans. And so, these are the kinds of jeans he has become famous for. Every single pair of Prps jeans is handcrafted and Donwan personally takes care of all the details. This explains the retail price of $350 to $650. You can see him drawing a design for a jacket, talking to manufacturers in Japan and, of course, driving cars.
Q: PRPS seems to have been inspired by a love of denim. Why do you think it is denim that captures the imagination of so many designers?
A: It's a large part of the early American Culture and with the Rebels in the early cinema. James Dean, Marlon Brando and Marilyn Monroe wearing Lee's and Levi's in the silver screen. It went from the working class to the silver screen and overtime becoming a staple in American wardrobes.
Q: The term that comes through when you're reading about PRPS is 'authenticity'. Why is this so important to you and how do you built authenticity into clothes?
A: A lot of the details from workwear and military are time tested. For me, a detail that has been able to withstand time, trends and innovation represents authenticity. It's always my way of paying homage to heritage product.
Q: You talk about clothes having a purpose - is just to be worn, admired and enjoyed not enough or do you items have to have a heritage and internet legacy to their design?
A: In early American workwear and military clothing were manufactured with a purpose and function. Prps is a brand that prides itself in creating items with that same ideology.
Q: In general terms, why is Japan the place to go to for denim?
A: The original Levi's looms are housed in Japan. Secondly, the small town Kojima in Okayama Japan, prides itself in being the best denim artisans in the world. The factories are family owned and passed down from one generation to another.
Q: Before founding PRPS you spent two years traveling in Japan, learning from denim masters. Why did you feel this was necessary and what was specific about these particular artisans that demanded your attention?
A: Doing proper research before embarking on any design project is part of my work ethic.
Q: Are there any anecdotes from your time there?
A: I usually stay in the Cerulean Tower in Shibuya and the elevator has facilitated very unexpected encounters. David Hasselhoff: Social, Shaun White (professional snowboarder): admired by many, Muse: uber cool, The Kooks: amiable and one of my favorites bands.
Q: You source your cotton from Africa. What makes it so special to go to such lengths?
A: The farms who harvest our cotton are family owned. Utilizing their cotton for our denim serves as a way to support small enterprises and not huge manufacturing cotton plants.
Q: I read that you use vintage shuttle looms from the '50s to give your denim a unique feel. Is it important for the brand's ethos to use period machinery or would you use
modern machinery if it delivered the same results?
A:Today I use both. The vintage looms I use for all my classic selvedge jeans and I use the modern machinery for the non-selvedge.
Q: You seem to celebrate using a denim weaving process that 'produces less material with more waste'. Is this emphasis on a slow and deliberate process a reaction to fast-fashion and the disposable nature of the modern fashion industry, or am I reading too much into it?
A: This is an accurate description of what it takes to produce a selvedge jean. Its a process that exist since the early 1870's.
Q: Referring back to your assertion that 'each item conceived with a particular function in mind', can you talk us through some of the functions behind your favourite spring/summer '11 pieces.
A: Many of my pieces served a purpose when first produced. Today they serve as my inspiration. Denim in general is a functional material. Basically, jeans were originally designed for miner's in the 1837. They were made with an ultra durable fabrication meant to endure the rigorous outdoor labor conditions experienced by the workmen. The same garment was worn day after day. Denim is a resilient fabrication, hence the reason for it's tight warp and weft weave. It's capable of being a long lasting material and it grows with you by showing the evidence of wears from all the physical labor. When raw denim is worn repeatedly the indigo wears out naturally resulting in no two jeans ever being the same. Every season I design keeping in mind the history and function of denim.
Q: I also hear that you are passionate about cars. Is it a similar thing with old-fashioned cars that mirrors your interest in clothes?
A: My dad is a vintage car enthusiast and I personally know the satisfaction of driving and caring for a vehicle that is pushing 90 years old. Yes, it is precisely a passion for both. They are both interrelated. Cars and clothing in the early days all reflected a time when America took pride in what they made.
Q and A With Julien Jarmoune, Black Orchid
I am not a celeb (at least, outside of Denimology!), but when I'm wearing my Black Orchids I sure do feel as if I were one! These jeans have a certain flair and a sense of glamour to them, be it in the detailed metal studding of their back pockets, or the black orchid chain attached to every single pair of jeans. When I met the designer, Julien Jarmoune, un très charmant mec français, I asked him to do a Q&A with Denimology and here is what he has to say:
Q: What inspired you to create Black Orchid?
A: After extensive research of the industry, I realized there was something missing in the denim market: a true, figure-flattering jean I wanted to create a sexy, edgy jean that is affordable without sacrificing quality. I wanted a jean with attention to details, comfortable fabric and a great fit for all sizes. A staple in any wardrobe, Black Orchid is ideal for all women searching for that perfect pair, whether classic or trendy.
Q: Which are the best sellers in your new collection?
A: We are known for our skinny jeans and jeggings, and this season is no exception. Because of the comfortable, high stretch fabric, our jeggings are a favorite of celebrities and real women alike. This summer is marking a big comeback of the Boot cuts and exaggerated flare styles. Our 2 hottest new styles are the High Rise Bell Bottom and the Wide Leg Trouser. They are both vintage-inspired classics that are easy to wear.
Q: What styles are going to be big next season?
A: I think the trousers are going to be very big, weather plain and sexy or pleated and casual. I also believe that "alternative fabrics" such as twills are a nice non-denim choice. Boot cuts and flares will definitely carry into fall, but our sexy black skinny jean will always remain #1.
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