Tony Patella - Interview
A Coninuous Lean has interviewed Tony Patella, who is partly responsible for San Francisco based premium denim label Tellason. The label creates limited edition jeans with each pair made of Cone Selvage denim from North Carolina, sewn in San Francisco and signed with a leather patch from Portland's Tanner Goods. Check out the full interview here.
Rogue Territory - Brand Profile
With so many denim labels making mass produced jeans out of China these days the demand for good quality, USA made product has dwindled in recent times... Well, so you would think.
Karl Thoennessen of Rogue Territory is bucking the trend with great success. His label, Rogue Territory is a tribute to American manufacturers of the early 20th century. When clothing was built to last and attention was placed not only on the quality of the materials, but also on the construction of the garment. The products Rogue Territory offers are modern interpretations of the garments that were produced during the industrial age of the 20th century. Their mission is to build on the designs of the past by offering a more fashionably relevant collection for those who are passionate about denim and vintage clothing.
Karl has taken some time out to answer a few questions about his label and the denim industry.
What is the story behind the name?
The name Rogue Territory truly embodies my own interpretation of denim that borrows inspiration from the all-American actors of the silver screen in the 1950s and 60s. Men like James Dean, Marlon Brando, Paul Newman, and Steve McQueen all exemplified an authentic and rebellious nature that was epitomized by the blue jeans that they wore on screen and off. The idea that rebels are rogue within society is an intriguing notion. Rebels are individuals, loners in nature. As a rebel you plot your own territory. These rebels used blue jeans to represent their unique individuality. Blue jeans were inherently rebellious, on the fringe of society and that very legacy has been woven into the rich history of the fabric and what it has come to represent. Rogue Territory believes that in denim's rawest form, it symbolizes a blank canvas for each of us to express our individuality and freedom, to tell our story, to be rebellious, and to ultimately create our own Rogue Territory.
Continued (with more photos)...
Resin Denim Designer Interview
From the visionaries behind Paper Cloth and Denim, founder Chris Gilbert teams up with designers Durango Adams and Chantel Valentene Inniss to launch Resin Denim this fall. Blending American styling with the vibe of New York City the line is made from Japanese Kurabo denim which is one of the oldest and most respected denim mills operating today. Each season an emerging artist will be designing special pocket linings creating one-of-a-kind collection pieces. The line for men and women is set to retail between $128 - $158 and will be available in stores and online at ResinDenim. Denimology had the great luck to chat with the designers before their launch.
1) Why do you think after 200 years jeans are still one of the most popular items of clothing?
Jeans are ingrained into our culture, They have crossed generations and class barriers because they are a staple item for the rebel and the conformist. Easy to wear and always sexy, their ability to evolve has cemented their position in our present and future wardrobes.
2) Last time I counted there were over 200 brands of premium denim jeans, what makes your jeans stand out from the rest?
RESIN was birthed from a company rooted in the genesis of the "premium" denim market. Working with founder Chris Gilbert and having the history of Paper Denim and Cloth as a foundation, we have built a new vision maintaining the same ethos of quality denim and great fit. There are many denim brands trying to find their niche in a very saturated market. RESIN appeals to a customer whose appreciation of great denim goes beyond the hype.
3) Who do you imagine is a typical customer?
It's difficult to imagine a RESIN customer as typical. We don't dictate how to wear what we make. Our "typical" customer styles our jeans as they see fit, inspired to express their individuality. Denim, like all personal style should be effortless and organic. In turn, the way they wear it inspires us when designing the future collections.
Continued (with more photos)...
Designer Q & A - Ande Whall
New Zealand's best kept secret in the world of denim is hands down, Ande Whall. Whall is the designer, pattern maker, sewing machinist and salesman of all goods produced under the Ande Whall banner. With an eye for detail and craftsmanship coupled alongside some selvage denim that would make any denim enthusiast eyes water, Ande Whall is making some great inroads into the world of premium men's denim. With all this hype going around about the man, we thought it was about time we caught up with him for a Designer Q & A.
1) Why do you think after 200 years jeans are still one of the most popular items of clothing?
It's the wonder cloth of all people and they do an honest days work.
2) Last time I counted there were over 200 brands of premium denim jeans, what makes your jeans stand out from the rest?
When I like a product or brand it's more of an overall vibe, there is some sort of essence that takes your fancy. Hopefully my customers feel the same.
Continued (with more photos)...
Designer Q & A - Flux
As shown previously on Denimology, Australian menswear label Flux are making waves on the international market. Their new collection "VICTORIE" is flying out of stores as we type. Denis and Julian from Flux have taken some time out to do a Denimology - Designer Q & A.
1) Why do you think after 200 years jeans are still one of the most popular items of clothing?
Jeans are versatile, dressed up or down. They came from a workwear background, then the rebels and rockers got 'em, and if the rebels and rockers say it's cool, who's gonna argue with them!
Especially for us guys, what the else are you going to wear? That's what FLUX make - jeans and tee's. That's all you need.
2) Last time I counted there were over 200 brands of premium denim jeans, what makes your jeans stand out from the rest?
We hand treat each and every pair of jeans we put out. So that means no mass productions and no overseas imports - it's all made and treated here in Melbourne by us. Our jeans are very simple in that there are no frills, no bells and whistles - just great fits, the best washes and extreme attention to the fine details. And the branding is subtle and clever.
Continued (with more photos)...
Designer Q & A - Machine Jeans
This weeks Designer Question & Answer is with Daniel Suh, Creative Director/Designer of Machine Jeans, an L.A. based denim brand.
1) Why do you think after 200 years jeans are still one of the most popular items of clothing?
Denim has always been comfortable, durable, versatile and most importantly fashionable. I think this combination is the reason why denim is and will remain timeless.
2) Last time I counted there were over 200 brands of premium denim jeans, what makes your jeans stand out from the rest?
I believe Machine Jeans stands out from the rest because we specialize and focus in the actual wash process using advanced finishing techniques while using the same fabrics as the overpriced denim labels. Unlike most mainstream denim brands, we own our own research and development facilities. We do everything from the beginning stages of design to post production in- house, by doing this we can cut out the middle man and offer premium denim at affordable prices. We strive to produce quality jeans with a commitment to the perfect fit all while offering a trendsetting appeal for today's consumer at a competitive price.
3) Who do you imagine is a typical customer?
Our customer is anything but typical. Machine Jeans appeals to a wide range of customers from all over the world, each wearing our jeans in their own unique way. Our customers tend to be the young trendsetters with a hip sense of style.
4) Where do you get your inspiration from?
As the Creative Director/Designer of Machine Jeans I feel it is my duty to always experiment with different washes, styles and finishing techniques. Having over 15 years experience in the denim industry, I am constantly searching for new ways to reinvent denim in ways that are innovative and fresh. Whenever I feel I need inspiration, I visit places that are visually and creatively appealing; such as art galleries or the movies and I find a lot of inspiration and ideas. Trend forecasting is of utmost important at our company and we are constantly taking inspiration from the world of music/art and pop culture to stay on top of the game.
5) Which style and wash of your jeans are flying out of the shops the quickest at the moment?
Our top selling styles of the moment are the LaToya Jean (ST-8438), The Bleached Destroyed (ST-8509), The B+W Marble Wash Jean (ST-9220b), and The Stonewashed Crease Wash (ST-81014)
6) Are there any essential jeans that everyone should have in their wardrobe?
Yes, a Machine Jean! But namely, a basic skinny jean is a must have in any fashionista's wardrobe. It's the perfect jean that is versatile and comfortable but stylish at the same time.
7) What are the first pair of jeans you remember?
Lee Jeans, always bring back a nostalgic feeling.
8) What have been your favorite pair of jeans that you have owned and why?
A pair of Levi's. I've had them for about 10 years and still wear them regularly. They just seem to get better with age
9) What have been your favorite pair of jeans that you have produced and why?
There are so many amazing jeans from Machine Jeans, but currently the bleached/destroyed denim look is definitely a strong trend right now and THE BLEACH & DESTROY jean is my personal favorite. I love the different textures the deconstructed/destroyed denim has to offer and the workmanship that goes into each pair of our jeans is really incredible. It makes me treasure them even more!
10) How many pairs of jeans do you currently own and which are your favorites?
Working in the denim industry, I am blessed to own countless pairs of jeans. Currently my favorite pair of jeans are the Bleach and Destroy jean from Machine Jeans.
11) Are you a "wash your jeans after each wear" person or a "wear your jeans for six months before you wash them" person?
Neither, I think I fall right in the middle. I don't wash my jeans after every wear but I certainly don't wait 6 months! I think washing in moderation is key!
12) Do you own jeans for different occasions (for instance I have work jeans, smart jeans, weekend jeans, holiday jeans, jeans for going to concerts in, jeans for gardening in) if so what have you got?
Being that jeans are so versatile, most my jeans are suitable for work, play and dress up occasions. I like that I can dress them up or down for any given occasion. One pair of jeans can go a long way.
13) Which is your favorite jeans shop?
Elli inside the Century City mall in Beverly Hills and TOOKI boutique on Melrose Ave.
14) Which celebs are currently wearing your jeans?
Tons of celebrities are fans of Machine Jeans, Rhianna, Danity Kane, Britney Spears and Angela Simmons have all been photographed wearing Machine Jeans.
15) How important big an effect does it have on your sales when a celeb is seen wearing a pair of your jeans?
The press celebrities bring us definitely impacts our sales in a huge way. We pretty much sell out of whatever style the celeb is wearing within 48 hrs of the advertisement/paparazzi photos.
16) Who is your current favorite denim icon (male & female). I am thinking the person who has the most denim style?
James Dean is a classic male denim icon and Nicole Richie has great denim style.
17) Which person living or dead would you most like to see in a pair of your jeans?
Lady Gaga
18) What is the worst denim crime?
Denim on denim is the big fashion faux pas, but then again, it all depends on who wears and how you wear it. Anything can be pulled off with individuality and confidence.
19) If jeans had not been invented, what would we all be wearing?
Polyester, god forbid!
20) And finally, any predictions for denim in future seasons
I think the denim market is still going strong and I think we will see a lot more denim in other forms other than just jeans. Jeans will always have their place, it's just a matter of what wash, cut and style will be popular for the season. I predict we will see a lot more denim with specialized wash techniques. Denim dresses and even denim leggings have slowly made it's prevalence and I think that's just the beginning of what's in store for the world of denim. I think the predictions and possibilities are endless!
